Early spring, in a dark barn, stalks of rhubarb stretch toward the light that never comes, growing faster, pinker, and sweeter because of it. Forced rhubarb, the harbinger of spring, has arrived at Fiesta Farms.
Forcing rhubarb, an old-world technique, tricks the plants into an early awakening, weeks before the fields are ready. Forced rhubarb is less tart, more tender, and ready to turn your pies, compotes, and cocktails into springtime showstoppers. Lennox Farm, a third-generation family farm in Shelburne, Ontario, is the last farm in Ontario still doing it. Here’s how they make the magic happen:
Photo Credit: Lennox Farm
One of Toronto’s most beloved bakers, Dawn Woodward, is a big fan of forced rhubarb:
I like the forced rhubarb, which has a lovely pink hue that stays during baking. Later-season rhubarb is just as good but not as pretty.
Dawn Woodward has put Ontario’s heritage grains—rye, barley, oats, corn, buckwheat, spelt, and Red Fife—on the world stage. She turns these grains into baked goods that are as nourishing as they are delicious.
Dawn is the force behind Evelyn’s Crackers and Evelyn’s Wholegrain Bakery in Liberty Village. Her recent book, Flour is Flavour, is part baking guide, part grain love letter—perfect for anyone who loves to bake or eat the results.
Here’s Dawn’s recipe for Rhubarb Cornmeal Cake, featured in Flour is Flavour.
Rhubarb Cornmeal Cake
Rhubarb and cornmeal are a match made in wholegrain heaven. The pink of the forced rhubarb and the lovely yellow of the corn, are a great way to welcome spring. I like the forced rhubarb, as it has a lovely pink hue that stays during baking. Later season rhubarb is just as good, but not as pretty.
If you don’t have rhubarb, use some roasted plum or apricot halves or pitted cherries instead. This cake is also delicious without fruit and can be served with a fruit compote or just whipped cream.
This recipe is from my friend, Cagla Onal.
Makes one 8 inch cake.
Ingredients:
- 150 grams; 3 large eggs, at room temperature
- 100 grams; ½ cup organic cane sugar
- 110 grams; ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons fine cornmeal
- ½ teaspoon baking powder
- 120 grams; ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon plus 1 ½ teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
- Zest of one orange (or lemon or lime)
Fruit topping:
- 400 grams fresh forced rhubarb, trimmed and cut into ½ inch lengths on the diagonal
- 50 grams; ¼ cup organic cane sugar
Method:
- Centre a rack in the oven and heat it to 350F. Lightly oil a round 8 inch cake pan and line the bottom with parchment paper, trimmed in a circle to cover the bottom. Lightly oil the paper, then dust the pan with sugar and tap out the excess.
- Toss the rhubarb with the sugar and arrange it nicely in an even layer on the bottom of the cake tin and set aside.
- Separate the eggs, placing the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer and the yolks in a medium bowl. Turn mixer on low speed and gradually increase speed. Once whites are foamy, increase to high speed and gradually add half (a ¼ cup) of the sugar. Whip whites until stiff and glossy, about 2 minutes. Set aside.
- Whisk the yolks with remaining ¼ cup of sugar until pale yellow and thick. Add the cornmeal and baking powder and whisk until just mixed in. Slowly pour in the extra virgin olive oil and whisk together to make a thick paste. Spoon one-quarter of the whites into the yolk mixture and gently stir to lighten it. Add this mixture to the remaining egg whites and gently stir, trying not to deflate the egg whites, until the mixture is homogenous, smooth, and you don’t see any streaks of egg whites.
- Pour the batter into the prepared tin, smooth the top, and bake for about 40 minutes, until the cake is lightly golden around the edges of the pan and a toothpick inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean. Transfer to a cooling rack and let rest for 5-10 minutes.
- Turn the cake out of the pan onto a cooling rack or plate, peel away the parchment paper, and let cool to room temperature.
Want to practice working with local, whole grains? On April 27th, Dawn of Evelyn’s Wholegrain Bakery is hosting a workshop. Make a box of delicious cookies using Ontario grains like Red Fife, buckwheat, corn and spelt.